Words and images Kathy Paterson
Julie Clark, a Wellington restaurateur, recently wrote a story, ‘Sorrel – An Undiscovered Delight’, for the local Substack, Appetite for Words, and since then I’ve become a little bit obsessed too.
I have not seen the green-leafed sorrel, a perennial herb with bright green spear-shaped leaves for sale in greengrocers or supermarkets; however, you can buy sorrel plants or seeds in garden centres. Sorrel is easy to grow and any grower would be happy to give you some to plant yourself.
In her story, Julie said, “It is sorrel’s lively sourness that has earned this green-leafed vegetable its culinary place, cutting through rich, fatty foods such as cream, butter and oily fish. In soups it brings brightness, in salads it adds intrigue, and in sauces it creates balance and depth. That zing is sorrel’s calling card, the reason it has survived centuries of kitchen use, from rustic peasant dishes to upmarket restaurant menus.”
There is also the beauty of the family, the red-veined sorrel. The tiny leaves look gorgeous and add flavour to both raw fish dishes and salads. These leaves can be bought in some greengrocers and speciality food stores usually sold in small punnets.
Sorrel Butter
Sorrel looks suspiciously like spinach! Pop a named stick in the ground alongside your plant to prevent confusion for novice vegetable pickers.
Sorrel is generally known as an accompaniment to salmon, but also works well with all fish, white meats, eggs, pan-fried haloumi and finely shredded for a risotto. Sorrel’s lemony sourness enhances flavour, but use in small quantities. It discolours quickly, too, so try to add at the last minute.
large handful (or small bunch or about 25 g) of a mixture of young sorrel leaves, young spinach leaves and flat leaf parsley
100 g butter, slightly softened
juice of ½ lemon
freshly ground black pepper
Finely chop the sorrel, spinach and flat leaf parsley and put in a bowl.
Add the butter, lemon juice and a good grind of black pepper in a bowl and mix well.
Wrap in baking paper and keep in the fridge. The butter can be frozen for a month.
Spaghetti with Sorrel Butter
Less is more when it comes to adding flavours to spaghetti and this dish couldn’t be simpler in that respect.
Serves 4
400 g dried spaghetti
1 quantity of sorrel butter
freshly ground black pepper
Cook the spaghetti according to the packet instructions until al dente.
Drain well then put in a large bowl. Drop in pieces of the sorrel butter and toss well to combine.
Serve in shallow bowls and pass the black pepper grinder.
Add one of these options: chopped fresh tomatoes; flaked cooked fresh salmon; freshly grated parmesan; pan-fry fresh breadcrumbs until golden and toss with chopped garlic, lemon zest and chopped parsley; a good drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.
Sorrel Sauce
To serve with salmon or chicken.
Makes about 1 cup
1 clove garlic, roughly chopped
1 tsp capers, drained
½ tsp Dijon mustard
3 tbsp sour cream or crème fraîche
1 tsp lemon juice
1 small handful sorrel leaves, stems removed
Put all the ingredients in a food processor and process until smooth. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Remember salt will counteract the acidity, so add a little more, if needed.
Transfer to a small bowl, cover well and keep in the fridge. Serve well chilled and preferably the same day as you make it for the best flavour.
Read Lynda Hallinan’s gardening page on sorrel here