Words Vicki Ravlich-Horan, Images Ashlee DeCaires
The process of making cheese is an ancient artform and is thought to have happened by accident in the Middle East when a shepherd carried milk in a bag made from a sheep stomach. Despite the dizzying array of cheeses now made, the method remains simple: bacteria or acid (lactic acid in the case of our shepherd) is added to milk to curdle it. From this the curds and whey are separated; the curd being turned into the countless versions of cheese enjoyed around the world.
What creates these variations begins with the milk, be it cow, goat or sheep. Add to this what the animal has grazed on and how the milk is treated, be it pasteurised or not.
Ageing is a key factor for some cheeses, while the introduction of different bacteria or flavours is for others.
Being a proud dairying nation it is not unexpected that New Zealand would be able to produce some world-class cheeses. Kapiti’s Kikorangi Creamy Blue, a regular winner at the New Zealand Cheesemakers Awards, recently won the Supreme Award for an International Cheese at the International Cheese Awards.
Kikorangi Creamy Blue has also done what many of our local cheeses need to do. This Gorgonzola-style cheese is not a Gorgonzola but would be the go-to creamy blue cheese for most New Zealanders. Made in Taranaki, it is a New Zealand cheese through and through, including its name.
New Zealand’s recent signing of a free trade agreement with the EU has meant what we name our cheeses is very important. Within seven years we can no longer name cheeses Gorgonzola or feta.
Simon Lamb, President of the New Zealand Specialist Cheesemakers Association (NZSCA), says seven years is not long for this monumental change. “Even at a government level they don’t understand the enormity of this issue.” And while feta and Gorgonzola are the two cheeses affected currently, the agreement allows for more cheeses to follow suit.
And if we think we are going to solve the problem by adding an extra to ‘t’ to feta or making it Kiwi with a name like Weta, Simon says think again. The EU rules mean the cheeses outside their PDO (protected designation of origin) cannot have any connection to the original name.
Simon also points out “that the reach is beyond just cheesemakers”, with food manufacturers and eateries unable to use the names feta or Gorgonzola as an ingredient unless it’s the real thing. For instance, that feta and spinach filo at the local cafe will soon no longer be described as such unless that feta came from Greece.
The NZSCA are creating a steering group to help New Zealand producers navigate these changes. Simon believes there have been lessons learnt from the wine industry, which went through similar changes when they could no longer use the name Champagne. In fact, when these changes came into play, New Zealand saw a drop in Champagne sales as Kiwi’s rallied around our Methode Traditionnelle wine makers. “To be brutally honest, that’s what we need to see happen again,” says Simon.
While New Zealand has seen an explosion in specialty local cheeses over the past two decades, this market is threatened by cheap imported cheeses. “Ten years ago,” Simon explains, “whey was a by-product of cheese. Now cheese is the by-product of whey.” This means there are international companies with cheese they are happy to sell cheaply to get it off their hands.
As with everything in life there needs to be a balance. I spoke to Anna Greentree and Liz Gore from Vetro, which stock a range of both New Zealand and quality imported European cheeses, to find out more.
Any Blues Fans?
For the blue cheese fans, Vetro stock, among other blue cheese for you to try, picante and dolce protected destination of origin (PDO) Gorgonzolas. The picante, Anna says, “boasts a strong tangy flavour and is characterised by its sharp blue veins. Dolce meaning ‘sweet’, offers a milder and creamier profile and this younger version is recognised for its soft and buttery texture.” Both are a cow milk cheese aged for a minimum 50 days.
“The other very popular blue we stock is the French St Agur with lots of blue veins but a mild creamy flavour. The New Zealand Whitestone Windsor blue is also outstanding with a very buttery texture and not too intense
Parmigiano-Reggiano
Anna believes “our customers must be very discerning”, as Parmigiano-Reggiano is their top selling cheese. While parmesan is the generic name for this style of cheese, the real deal is Parmigiano-Reggiano PDO, produced in the Italian provinces of Parma and Reggio Emilia. (Join me on our Taste of Northern Italy tour in 2025 to see Parmigiano-Reggiano being made and aged.)
The governing body behind the PDO stamp, the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, requires all of its cheeses to be produced by hand and to use milk from cows following a specific diet. The cheese then must be aged for at least 12 months. After 12 months, every wheel of cheese is inspected by the Consortium, at which point, if approved, the wheel officially earns its Parmigiano-Reggiano approval.
Aged further, and the character will continue to change. Anna says, “As the cheese reaches 36 months or older, notes of spices become more prominent in both the aroma and flavour. It is highly digestible and rich in nutrients, suitable for lactose intolerant and younger children. Over 40 months, the flavour of Parmigiano-Reggiano becomes particularly bold and intense, with a strong grainy texture. It has a very intense aroma with fragrances of spices and smokiness, which make it an ingredient with a bold flavour or the real star of the show for aperitifs. If you happen to find a 50-month Parmigiano-Reggiano, you can trust you’re in for an intensely crystalised treat.”
Top Picks from around the World
Brie de Meaux is considered one of the ‘Kings of Cheeses’ and one of the most known French Bries. Another protected cheese, this one is made from raw milk from Meaux, just outside of Paris.
French range of fromagier cheeses. These double-cream soft cow’s milk cheeses, similar to Brie, have gone through an ultrafiltration process, removing water from the pasteurised milk making them creamier, with more nutrients and proteins than a Brie. Liz recommends eating these at room temperature, “so it oozes with flavour and creaminess.” There are a range of flavours including a blue, truffle and brand-new garlic and herbs.
Sheep and goats cheeses. “We are noticing that more people are becoming more lactose intolerant,” says Anna, who points out that their wide range of sheep and goats milk cheese seems to be more digestible for some people. “Whilst sheep and goat’s milk are not free of lactose, they have much less amounts and seem to be more tolerated by people.”
“Most of our Greek cheeses are made from sheep and goat’s milk. Our Italian pecorino (the ONLY cheese to be used in an authentic carbonara), is a great option for those with cow’s milk intolerances. Derived from the word ‘pecora’ (which means sheep in Italian), pecorino is an Italian hard cheese produced from sheep’s milk. Our beautifully mild Italian sheep cheese, brigante, is a young cheese made from whole sheep milk. The fresh and savoury taste of this young cheese goes beautifully with the intense flavour of truffle.”
Another standout for Anna is their Spanish Manchego. “These are a dry sheep milk cheese and well worth trying. They don’t have a strong sheep flavour, but a very umami flavour comes through.”
Home-grown
Sitting proudly among the imported cheeses at Vetro are some of our outstanding New Zealand cheeses, including Whitestone.
“We love our New Zealand made goudas from Meyer,” says Liz, “with their Vintage being very dry, crumbly and intense. Often I will use it instead of a parmesan to give a real flavour kick to a risotto, for example. The fenugreek and cumin are firm but creamy in texture and both have very good flavour balance and a must have on any cheese board.
“We also love our New Zealand Whitestone Bries, being a well-priced reliable cheese. It is not every day we can afford our lovely imports and the Whitestone Bries do a great job for that everyday version. The Whitestone Windsor Blue is also outstanding with a very buttery texture and not too intense – my go-to blue. Their Havarti style cheese in a bright orange wax rind looks (and tastes) fabulous on any cheese board, as does the tasty Roundhill with its deep blue wax rind
The Zany Zeus range, including their ‘feta’, halloumi and this food writer’s favourite ricotta, are must trys! “Once you’ve had a Zany Zeus Greek yoghurt, you’ll find it difficult to buy another brand,” says Anna. “I add the Zany Zeus Mint ‘Feta’ to most of my dishes requiring feta and the result is invariably amazing!”
While some cheeses rely on ageing, others are best fresh, and this is the case for mozzarella, so you can’t beat the Clevedon Buffalo range.
Try Something New
While these cheeses aren’t new, many have been hard to find in New Zealand.
Raclette is an incredible melting cheese, specifically made for melting and pouring over other foods like tartiflette, which is a delicious dish with the cheese melted over potato, bacon and onion. “Don’t be fooled by the stink,” warns Anna, as with many French cheeses “the taste is outstanding”.
Comté, one of France’s most popular cheeses, is made from unpasteurised cow’s milk in the Franche-Comté region of eastern France bordering Switzerland. Nutty and sweet in flavour with notes of toffee and hazelnut, Comté is similar to Gruyère, used for melting in sauces or is simply eaten for breakfast with jam and bread.
Kefalotyri is a hard, salty white cheese made from sheep milk or goat’s milk in Greece and Cyprus. If you love halloumi give kefalotyri a try.
Italian provolone in piccante, dolce or smoked, are amazingly versatile cheeses which work well on your cheese board or Liz recommends “crumbed and deep fried” as you would find in Brazil as a typical bar snack, “delicious and perfect with an ice cold beer on a hot day!”
