Words Denise Irvine Images Ashlee DeCaires
I have a fondness for quinces and vermouth but have always enjoyed them independently of each other, as in quince paste and a glass of vermouth with loads of ice.
This Monday afternoon, the two things unexpectedly come together in a cocktail at Neat, the speciality liquor store and tasting room at Made Market in Hamilton East. The cocktail is from an ever-changing list compiled by Alex Hudson, Neat founder and drinks supremo, and I’ve been attracted by a key ingredient, the previously unknown Saison Fallen Quince Vermouth that happily combines two favourites.
For this cocktail, the Fallen Quince is blended with Roots Rosso Vintage Pinot Noir Gin, Dicey pinot noir wine and fruity cassis liqueur. Alex steps through each component as he measures and shakes, and he says the best drinks are served with a story, an insight into the craft. “It’s the little things, the subtle things that create the experience.”
So he shares some background on the luscious quince-y vermouth from Melbourne, the Roots gin from Blenheim, and how the cocktail achieves balance without the traditional acidic hit of citrus. He also explains a few technical skills and the importance of perfectly made ice cubes, followed, of course, by the pleasure of drinking a bright and juicy cocktail which is the colour of amber beads.
You expect the unexpected at Neat, a rare gem that blends hospitality with retail, where you can enjoy a drink in-store, buy a bottle for home, or take part in a structured tasting or a masterclass.
Neat opened in May last year under the Hamilton hospitality partnership of Alex, Mat Pedley and John Moughan, whose establishments include Mr Pickles, Last Place, Wonder Horse, Everyday Eatery at Hamilton Zoo, Reggie’s, on the rooftop at Made, and Neat on the market’s ground floor.
Alex says he’s had a number of ideas for a set-up such as Neat and has been working towards it for a long time, honing his hospitality skills and gaining knowledge through years of travel, bar-tending competitions and bar management.
He is best known for his work at Wonder Horse on Victoria Street, which he opened in 2012, developing a reputation for handcrafted cocktails, craft beers and top quality wine. Neat, the latest creation, perhaps takes its inspiration from the concept of a chef’s table, with a limited number of people enjoying an experience curated by experts in their field.
“Neat enables us to share our knowledge,” he says. “We’ve assembled a list of spirits, wine and craft beers not typically sold by others, and our customers have the pleasure of watching their drinks being made especially for them.”
It all happens in an elegant tasting room with floor-to-ceiling shelves that look like they’re out of a library but in fact they’re laden with bottles of whiskey, gin, mezcals, liqueurs, wines and more.
The bottles come from all points of the globe, and Alex and his staff can tell you the provenance of every one of them. Alex says some people think the bottles are Neat’s own collection but a huge number of them are retail stock, definitely for sale, and there are between 200 to 300 whiskeys in the line-up.
He doesn’t have a favourite. “I prefer to have a different drink every time. I wouldn’t be good at this job if I had a favourite.”
A massive high table is central to Neat’s story. It creates intimacy, comfortably seats 15 people but can stretch to a few more, and its design and construction was a collaboration between Alex, his business partner John Moughan, and an architect friend from Australia.
Arrangements are flexible: you can settle in and order a cocktail, a craft beer or a glass of wine and maybe a simple bar snack assembled by staff, or bring in take-out food from Made’s adjacent Mess Hall or from Reggie’s upstairs.
Or you can get a bit more serious and book a structured tasting of a favourite spirit or wine variety with friends, or perhaps organise a private cocktail masterclass to tweak your skills and maybe learn how to make a decent margarita or espresso martini at home.
Neat holds its own scheduled (and sought-after) masterclasses at the high table, and it’s where whisky clubs and similar groups meet. It is an informal gathering place for Hamilton East locals, and the tasting room can sometimes be reserved for private functions for up to 30 people.
Alex is also planning future events led by guest wine-makers, distillers and spirits ambassadors. “It’s down to what people want.”
He says he recently had a couple walk in who told him they didn’t typically drink spirits but were interested in doing a bourbon and rum tasting. So he put this together for them on the fly, guiding them through the process with four different rums and four bourbons. He says they enjoyed it immensely and departed with a new appreciation of these.
He likes seeing customers gain pleasure and understanding from a tasting or class. “You don’t have to smell gooseberries on the nose or the sea breeze rustling through the pine trees but through practice and guidance you might find more joy in what you taste.
“We can teach you how to catalogue flavours and create connections between previously remembered flavours with what is happening in real time. This enhances the tasting experience, and you can develop more confidence and knowledge.”
So in the spirit of all this (no pun intended), I buy a bottle of the lovely Fallen Quince Vermouth, and while I may not faithfully replicate Neat’s bespoke amber cocktail at home, it will be a pleasure to experiment with it over time.
Book your own Neat tastings with 6 six tasters of the tipple of your choice. The Neat team will talk them through with you and supply tasting notes. Or better still create your own monthly tasting club, contact the team for more information.
neatdrinks.co.nz
