Words and images by Vicki Ravlich-Horan
I have been lucky enough to visit Paris several times. The first time I ticked off the iconic sights that make this city the most visited in the world. I battled the crowds to be underwhelmed by the Mona Lisa, visited Notre Dane (luckily before the fire), climbed the steps of the Sacré Coeur, not to visit the church but to take in the view.
On subsequent visits I enjoyed wandering along the Seine, meandering around Le Marais, searching for the best steak frits, trying escargot for the first time and scoffing as many croissants I could walk off in one day.
So when I returned last October with my husband Andrew and daughter Zoe (9 years old), we spent a magical day in Versailles and made it to the top of the Eiffel Tower for the most epic family selfie to date. Then we went our separate ways, with them ticking off the must-sees in Paris and me spending the day in my favourite street – Rue Montorgueil.
A short walk from the Louvre, this is one of the oldest, liveliest and most beautiful streets in Paris, especially if you are a foodie!
This area was considered the belly of Paris. Rue Montorgueil runs from Rue Réaumur down to the Forum des Halles, one of the biggest Parisian markets for centuries (until it was demolished in the 1970s). This area was a main trade route into the city for centuries and thus the place many traders sold fresh produce from the Normandy coast.
Today the market and traditional trade routes are gone but what remains is a postcard Parisian street that you can immerse yourself in and feel and eat like a local.
The best days to visit are Thursday and Sunday, and I suggest getting there early so you can enjoy a coffee and croissant in one of the many cafes with tables spilling out onto the street.
Wander up and down the cobbled pedestrian street taking in the beautiful produce, seafood, flowers and more. Pop into G. Detou, the grocery store food writer David Lebovitz calls “one of the world’s great food shops”. G. Detou is a 65-year-old institution whose name means ‘I have everything’ and is a foodie’s dream. The only downside is figuring out how much you can get in your luggage. Inside is the best French chocolate, Sicilian pistachios, Breton sardines, Périgord foie gras and smooth Pommery mustard.
Step inside one of the fromageries to smell and taste a range of French cheese. Don’t miss the butchers who also sell all manner of rillettes, terrines and pâtés. Seek out Au Boeuf du Cantal (at number 54 rue Montorgueil), this third-generation butcher sources the best from around France.
Take in the hidden treasures, like the distinctive building of Au Rocher de Cancale with its colonial-era mural on the façade. Look down for the plaque between rue Montorgueil and rue Bachaumont . It bears witness to the historical event of January 4, 1750, where two men named Jean Diot and Bruno Lenoir were caught “in an indecent posture and in a reprehensible manner”. Tried and sentenced to be burned at the stake they are now considered LGBT martyrs, and are the last people executed in France for homosexuality.
Seek out the crescent moon above the door at 9 rue Montorgueil, which is all that remains of the 18th-century cafe that Casanova frequented when he lived there in 1759.
Look up to discover what the shops below may have sold centuries ago. At the northern end of the street, a 19th-century sign ‘Au Planteur’ depicts a black man serving coffee to a white man sitting on sacks of coffee. This is one of the few reminders on Parisian streets of their colonial past and has recently been the centre of controversy, with calls for it to be removed. Dating back to 1890, the sign indicates that Au Planteur is the only store (Aucune Succursale) selling exotic products from the colonies, such as coffee, tea, chocolate, and cane sugar.
A less controversial sign is that of the golden snail atop of L’Escargot Montorgueil. If you have not tried escargot, there is no better place, not just for the snails but the atmosphere and history. Opening its doors back in 1832, the elaborate interior was fully restored in 2013. While there, sample other classic French dishes like frog’s legs, foie gras, and beef tartare.
While sampling classic French dishes add Breizh Café to the list. This crêperie is in fact a chain, with outlets across France and Japan, and it is a wonderful spot to enjoy an authentic crêpe washed down with a cider. It was created by chef Bertrand Larcher to celebrate the traditions and products of his homeland in Brittany, including traditional buckwheat crêpes and ciders. Trust me, you are in good hands as he also runs a crêpe-making school (awarding a state-approved qualification), a farm in Saint-Malo, a Michelin-starred Japanese fine dining restaurant in Cancale, and a grocery store showcasing buckwheat products).
Whatever you do, save room for pastries! This is a rule when visiting any area in Paris, but in rue Mon you have several must-stops.
Pâtissier Stohrer is the oldest pastry shop in Paris, opening is 1725 by Nicolas Stohrer. Stohrer was the pastry chef at Versailles, brought to France by King Louis XV’s wife Marie. Apparently it was a thing that when they married, the queens would not just bring their glam squad, they also brought their pastry chefs. This is in fact how France has become world famous for its desserts and pastries – they stole them from the best chefs around the world when they came to work for the kings and queens.
Stohrer is credited for creating the Rum Baba (Baba au rhum), which in fact began with him soaking dried brioche with Malaga wine and flavouring it with saffron, pastry cream, grapes and dry currants. Later generations replaced the wine with rum to create the version we know today.
So sampling a Rum Baba from Stohrer’s is a must and if you are brave, you can buy a jar of the Babas to carefully pack and take home.
But Babas are not this store’s only attraction. Step inside and it is hard to decide which is more beautiful, the store’s décor or the line-up of desserts. I couldn’t resist a macaron or two along with a classic éclair.
Further down the road you will find Fou de Pâtisserie. What sets Fou de Pâtisserie apart is not its history but its pedigree. The bakery is not the result of one genius but instead the curation of exceptional products from the best pastry chefs in Paris. So don’t traipse all over Paris to try the creations of the best, just come here.
Wayne Good’s Paris Picks
With family in Paris, Wayne has been a regular visitor to the city for many years. He also takes tours to France too, as he says, “Share in the joy of this wonderful country.” So who better to get some extra Paris picks from!
Wayne admits, “Food always plays a large part in my travels, from the grand style to more modest bistro type restaurants.”
Cafe de la Paix – Across the street from Opera Garnier, opened in 1862, famous for not only formal French cuisine served by mature suited waiters, but for its stunning interior, decorated in the Napoleon III style. In the past frequented by the likes of Oscar Wilde, Jules Massenet and Roman Polanski. It’s an experience.
Le Procope – Located in Saint-Germaine des Pres, the oldest restaurant in Paris opened in 1686. Steeped in history and serving divine French cuisine. A great place for lunch, but get there early as it is popular with Parisians and tourists alike. Try their sweetbreads served en croute. Yum!
Laduree – For the most beautiful cakes, pastries and macarons. There are several locations, but I especially like going to Rue Royale.
Le Bon Marche – Located in the 7th arrondissement, I include this department store for its food hall. Their selection of fine ingredients, wines and comestibles will leave you drooling. Well worth a couple of hours, including enjoying Champagne and oysters in their Oyster Bar.
E Dehellerin – Located not far from Rue de Rivoli, the best kitchen shop in Paris! Opened in 1820 and made famous by Julia Child. Fantastic copper, knives and any type of kitchen gadgets you can think of, all presented on rustic wooden shelves as it has been for centuries. You will not leave here empty handed!
