WORDS, RECIPES & IMAGES JULIE LE CLERC
Capers may be tiny, but they sure punch well above their weight. These zesty little flavour bombs are actually the unopened flower buds of the caper bush, also known as Flinders Rose (Capparis spinosa), a hardy shrub that grows across the Mediterranean. You’ll often see them clinging to rocky outcrops and sun-bleached stone walls in places like southern Italy, Spain, Malta, Croatia, Greece and Morocco.
It was many years ago now, but I’ll never forget spotting them for the first time growing wild in Malta, tumbling over an ancient wall and thriving where nothing else seemed to. To realise that the humble jarred condiment began as a fragile flower-to-be felt like uncovering a delicious secret.
The buds are carefully gathered by hand, usually in the cool of morning, then dried and preserved in salt or a vinegar brine. This process intensifies their distinctive flavour and gives them their unmistakable punch. Sizes vary – the tiniest, known as nonpareils, are prized for their delicate texture and concentrated flavour, while the bigger ones are a bit bolder. Salt-cured capers need to be soaked in cold water and rinsed before use, while vinegar-brined versions can go straight from jar to the dish. The brine can be used too – a splash will add an intriguing brightness to dressings and sauces.
If the buds are left to bloom, the bush will produce fruit: the caperberry. About the size of an olive, with a firm skin and an explosion of seeds inside, the pickled berries are a crunchy, lemony taste sensation. Delicious on their own as an antipasto, caperberries can also be used as a garnish to add texture and cut through rich flavours.
In the kitchen, capers are indispensable. They bring welcome sharpness to pasta, pizza, seafood, salads, dips and stews. They’re brilliant in mayonnaise, vinaigrettes, sauces, salsas, and savoury butters, and pair beautifully with eggs, oily fish, lamb or roasted vegetables. Try tossing a spoonful through potato salad or serving a sprinkling over smoked salmon and cream cheese smeared on a bagel. Whatever the dish, a handful of capers will bring it into sharper, livelier focus.
Salmon Crudo with Fried Capers
This salmon crudo with fried capers is light, fresh and perfect for a hot summer’s day. It only takes a few ingredients and a short time to make this crowd pleaser. Slightly larger capers are ideal for frying, as their extra surface area allows them to crisp up beautifully.
Serves 4 as a starter
DRESSING
1 small shallot, very finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1 tsp Dijon mustard
2 tbsp lemon juice
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
FRIED CAPERS
¼ cup larger capers, drained
1 tsp flour
2–3 tbsp olive oil
SALMON
350g freshest sushi grade salmon
a few dill or fennel fronds, picked
freshly ground black pepper
a few caperberries, halved, to garnish
Dressing: In a bowl, combine all the dressing ingredients and whisk until well combined. Season to your liking with salt and pepper and set aside.
Fried capers: Pat the capers dry with a paper towel and place in a small bowl. Add the flour and toss until lightly coated. Heat the oil in a small non-stick frying pan set over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the capers and cook for a few minutes, stirring until crisp and golden. Transfer the capers to drain on a paper towel lined plate.
Salmon: Slice the salmon as thinly as possible and arrange on a platter in a single layer, then drizzle over the dressing. Scatter with crispy capers, dill or fennel and grind over a little extra cracked pepper. Garnish with caperberries and serve immediately.
