Words and images by Sandy Crooks
Stepping out of the airport in Bali, you feel that whoosh of the tropics – warmth, noise, smells. For me, this is the point where my shoulders drop and tension seeps away. Bali is a place of such richness – colours, customs, flavours. No matter how many times I visit, there are always new experiences awaiting. As a chef and cafe owner, my world revolves around food. I just love fresh, flavoursome and exotic, so naturally it becomes a huge part of any travel for me. But still, I always tell people that with Bali it is so much more than that.
In the many years I’ve been travelling to Bali, the food scene has grown in a way I would never have imagined. There’s always been an incredible energy to this island, which is one of the things that hooked me from the first visit. There are many sides to Bali, and it’s possible to experience the luxury while appreciating and respecting the authenticity. More development means that alongside all the beautiful street cafes and warungs (places serving authentic Balinese food) there are so many lovely eateries that add an extra dimension – from vegan cafes to clifftop bars and five-star fine dining.
Bali is an island that allows you to immerse yourself in every part of the culture, and last year I started a boutique business, guiding small tours to Bali. I’ve always been drawn to countries that contrast with our Kiwi way of life. Years ago I lived in Egypt, running a cafe in Dahab, and India is another one of my great loves. For me, Bali shares elements with these countries. As I’ve explored and built relationships here, I realised that what I find exciting, others may find daunting, and I felt more and more that I wanted to share what’s beneath the surface.
I love the idea of people coming together over a plate of food, so one of the first things on the agenda for our trip was an interactive cooking school. Right from the start there was just so much laughing. We started with a market tour in Sanur. Anyone who has been to a Southeast Asian country will know that these places are just a mine of delicious flavours. Feeling the buzz of the community was something everyone really got into. When we started cooking there was lots of hilarity: hands right in there, you’re rolling and pounding, exploring how different flavours work together. Food acts as a universal language, and when we did a food tour a few days later, we developed the most amazing relationship with our guide Putu. He took us to the oldest original coffee house in Denpasar, a tiny grungy hangout with the most fabulous décor and coffee. He explained how vital tourism was to Bali, which really resonated with the group. We felt hugely moved when he told us how much joy it brought him to share his culture.
Ubud is a mecca for visitors to Bali, and we went there to focus on spirituality and wellness, which is so entrenched in the Indonesian way of life. We travelled to a sacred location to take part in a spiritual healing and purification ceremony; this was an absolute highlight for the group – although we fell about, guffawing, when we were handed our ceremonial sarongs! Walking out onto the rocks, we fully submerged in warm, clear water under a waterfall, it was magical and cleansing. We finished with a scream ceremony to get rid of tensions and woes, before a final blessing. It was an incredibly bonding experience, and without sounding too ‘woo woo’ I came away feeling that it had brought us all to a new level of friendship and understanding.
I’m a real hunter gatherer type, and something I’ve always loved about Bali is the wealth of artefacts, which is why my trips include sourcing and shopping opportunities. I’ve found many places off the beaten track over the years, so the chance to visit a selection of these as a group is so exciting. Homewares were a big hit, and amongst the retailers we visit is an amazing ceramic wholesaler, who sent some of us back with just about a full dinner service. Funnily I recently discovered a place to buy eyewear, which at the prices meant all the ladies stocked up on specs for the next few years!
Bali has really risen to embrace its visitors. Among my favourite restaurants are Longtime (where the head chef is from Chin Chin in Melbourne), and Mama Sans, owned by a guy from Gisborne. I wanted to try something new and had booked us all into the tasting menu at Cuca. Flagged as a ‘think outside the box’ concept, it combines casual and fine dining. I love to try different things, and this was such a treat. Nine artful courses which included stuffed marrowbone and dessert fashioned into an egg yolk which you cracked into a milk pudding. This was a wow moment, an experience that you would expect in a metropolitan city rather than tucked in the bay of an Indonesian island.
We took the opportunity to do so many lovely things – tours, spa days, bike rides, perfume-making classes, all while making the most of the beauty of the surroundings. There’s always something to see in Bali and travelling together in a minibus we were constantly spotting things; one minute someone would be calling out they’d glimpsed a monkey, someone else would be yelling to stop to take a photo of a gorgeous temple. As well as coming away best of friends, I truly believe we all felt enriched by the trip. There was so much fun and laughter, relaxation and happiness. For me the truly incredible, inexplicable thing about Bali is that no matter how many times you visit, there is always something fresh and new to find.
Find out more about Sandy’s trips to Bali at www.soulfulescapes.co.nz
