Words and images by Vicki Ravlich-Horan
Is it time to be tempted by Tasmania?
Tasmania is geographically the butt of Australia, as well as of their jokes. But as a Kiwi, this island has a familiar feel. There is a fierce pride born from their land and what they produce. This was once predominantly sheep, timber and crops like wheat and barley. It is now apples, cherries and wine along with whisky, gin, salt, truffles, saffron … The list is so long I wondered why it had taken me so long to go.
Talk of a trip to Tasmania began towards the end of our research trip to South Australia three years ago. I had assembled a group of friends and fellow food writers to join me on my reccy when designing the Taste of South Australia tour. We had had such a good time, we began planning our next trip, the consensus being it had to be Tasmania.
As they say, good things take time, and after three years of group chat, we managed to book a date that suited and we were off.
As you can imagine, going on holiday with a group of women who are usually the ones calling the shots could be a disaster. My solution is to approach it like I do most things in life – I created a plan from extensive research, with a few goals for the week, ensuring there is room for spontaneity, curiosity and even folly. Those that wanted to join me were welcome, with no offence taken to those wanting to deviate from the plan.
Surrounding myself with talent is another key to my success. Kathy Paterson always has her finger on the pulse when it comes to the dining scene and upcoming chefs, so we could rely on Kathy for dinner recommendations.
Lynda Halinan and Tash McGill have different specialties and had both been to Tasmania a few times before so had some great connection, while Denise Irvine can be relied upon to ask the insightful questions and discover the real stories.
Our first day was a great example of this dynamic in action. We landed in Hobart and, after picking up the rental cars, we headed down the Huon Valley. Our first stop was to the ‘Vinegar Guy’ that Lynda had found via an old magazine article and connected with via Instagram.
With time up our sleeves before we were due to meet Patrick at Tas Saffron the consensus in the car was “what the heck! This is either going to be a waste of time or a fantastic find.”
Having to ring the saffron farm an hour later to say we were running late proved Tim the ‘Vinegar Guy’ was a fabulous find.
Tim Jones from Wild Mother Vinegar was a cider maker before becoming enamored with vinegar. His vinegars are an experiment in fermentation using local waste products like the tonnes of apples and cherries that don’t make the grade each season.
We began with a tasting of Tim’s products from his simple yet magical apple cider vinegar through to the flavoured varieties (tarragon being a standout), moving on to his delicious cherry vincotto and range of shrubs. We naturally wanted to see where the magic happened so followed Tim into the converted cherry storehouse, now Wild Mother HQ, where we were greeted by the delightful aroma of raspberries as the team bottled their raspberry shrub. Standing in the cellar, where the vinegars turn from fruit juice to a culinary elixir, Tim let us in on a few of his experiments, including his attempt at making balsamic.
Now very late, we departed, loaded with vinegar, local tips and with big smiles on our faces. If this was to be our first taste of Tasmania, we were in for a treat.
The next day we meandered north, exploring quaint towns like Richmond and New Norfolk. We popped into the stunning Lark Distillery in its new home in Pontville. Lark is Australia’s oldest and most innovative whisky distillery and its new site is awe inspiring and worth a visit, even for those who don’t enjoy a dram.
From one historical spot to another we arrived at our digs for the night, Ratho Farm. Here we were met by the charismatic owner Greg Ramsay who showed us around his family’s homestead that dates back to the 1820s. Before dinner, a real country affair, we cut across the golf course (Australia’s’ oldest) to Greg’s brother’s farm and the home of Clyde Mill.
This working 200-year-old water mill now adds to its pedigree a place in Tasmanian Whisky history having been the home to Nant Distillery and now Clyde Mill. Head distiller Lucy O’Brien was there when we popped in, so we got a real insight into the distilling process before enjoying a tipple.
The next day we veered west through the picturesque lake region on our way to Launceston, to visit the fertile Doleraine region, where we enjoyed salmon, wine, berries, cheese and ice cream. I craftily timed our nights in Launceston to include a Friday night so we could enjoy dinner at Timbre Kitchen.
Chef and owner Matt Adams’ ever evolving menu is based on hyper local produce grown in community gardens, backyards and on local farms, whom Matt barters with, trading their produce for dining vouchers. This innovation is not just evident behind the scenes but also on the plate, as the kitchen team start from scratch each day with what seasonal produce is brought into the kitchen.
Matt says, “We barter. We make no demands. We simply receive and work with it and put it on the menu. I think it’s a really good expression of the area … for anyone coming in. They’re getting a true expression of the West Tamar.”
In 2021, Launceston was recognised by UNESCO as a City of Gastronomy, one of just 49 in the world. This means there are plenty of great places to choose from for a meal. We were very pleased Timbre was one we chose!
I love a good farmer’s market when travelling. So come Saturday morning, we were up early to have breakfast at the Launceston Harvest Market. Denise and Tash chatted to Caroline Brown from Brady’s Lookout Cider who was setting up a display of over 80 heritage apples they grow and make award-winning cider from.
I was intrigued by Dave, the Grumpy Pie Guy’s Tasmanian Triangles. I found out these were his ingenious answer to an objection from another market stall holder to Dave selling sausage rolls. Ironically Dave says he sells more Tasmanian Triangles that he ever did sausage rolls. “They hold the sauce better,” adds a customer waiting behind me for his.
With my Tasmanian Triangle in hand along with a cheese toastie (from Meat Bread Cheese) and several moreish Danish (from Sweet Wheat), we regrouped over coffee to indulge. It would be easier to linger longer, but we needed to hit the road and tick off more of our must see’s and tastes.
Next, we were heading up the Tamar Valley. We were told by a fellow traveler about the amazing seahorse experience and so were heading in that direction. When we arrived at Beauty Point (what a name!) I quickly wanted to deviate from the plan, because next door was Platypus House.
Who wouldn’t want to learn more about the weirdest animal in the world? Platypuses are egg laying mammals only found in Australia. My interest had been piqued when locals had told us stories of having wild platypuses in their stream. This was the first time I had imagined platypuses anywhere but in a National Geographic.
At Platypus House we joined a tour to discover more wonderful facts about the platypus from their deadly venom to the mother’s milk being excreted from her pores. While the food in Tasmania is phenomenal, the nature is a close second.
In addition to platypuses, penguins and Tasmanian devil encounters should be on your list. We decided to combine nature with food for our next experience.
Heading back to Hobart, via the coast, we stopped at Coles Bay to don waders and shuck oysters plucked directly from the water. Our guide, Declan, was the perfect mix of charm, knowledge and fun, just the person you want to guide you through the process of wedging a small sharp knife into the oyster’s hard shell to free the meat.
With the sun shining on the glistening water and a glass of Freycinet Riesling, it was a perfect moment, even from someone who doesn’t enjoy seafood.
Doubling down on the seafood, we headed down the coast to Bicheno for a favourite local, The Lobster Shack, before heading back to Hobart.
Back to where we started seven days before, we had wined, dined, explored, laughed and learned. Tasmania was a true treat! The question is, where do us gourmet girls go next?
Taste of Tasmania Tour
Response from our Taste of Tasmania tour wasamazing with our March 2027 tour selling out in just a few weeks. So, we added an extra date, with a tour in November this year.
On this tour we will meet makers like Tim from Wild Mother Vinegar and the folk at The Truffle Farm (Tasmania’s oldest truffière) we will visit a saffron farm, oyster farm, apple orchard, winemakers, distillers, and salt makers.
This is a small group, bespoke tour which includes most meals, including dinner at Timbre and an exclusive final night farm feast at Gardners Bay Farm.
We stay in stunning accommodation from Piermont Estate to Hotel Verge in Launceston, Vibe Hotel Hobart and of course the quaint Ratho Farm.
For more details and to book go to tasteoftours.com
